Takao-san

On Saturday I finally convinced my husband to climb Takao-san (Mount Takao, a small but beloved mountain in western Tokyo) with me. It was his first time, and although I've been there several times it's been a while since I hiked all the way up--there is a lift and cable car that take you most of the way. I figured it was a good way to jump-start the summer as I'm working at three summer camps, all of which involve lots of hiking and physical activity, and I'm not really in shape for it. In fact, I'm badly out of shape and sometimes find myself out of breath even from going up long flights of stairs. A bad sign, so I think the reason my husband agreed to go after all these years of pestering him was more out of genuine concern for my health and less due to the effectiveness of my nagging.

Takao-san stands at a mere 599 metres and takes just an hour and a half to climb, so we had a late start (timed to coincide with the 4:00 opening of the beer garden near the summit). We took route 6, unlike most people who take route 1 (which is paved) or the cable car or lift. So we encountered few people going up, and most of them were heading down, having started early like good hikers are supposed to. The cloudy, sometimes rainy weather might also have helped keep people away, and it was really nice not to have to deal with the usual crowds.

One of the highlights of route 6 is Biwataki, a small but pretty waterfall. It is considered holy (actually the whole mountain is) so has its own shrine, and nearby are the Iwayadaishi (two small caves that are more like nooks). The great monk Kobo Daishi was is to have taken shelter there during a rain storm--according to legend he also cured a sick mother and child in the caves, but I'm a bit fuzzy on the details--anyone know the story? The bell above hangs at the entrance to one of the caves.

Biwataki is used for takigyo (waterfall meditation) and when we got there a couple was preparing for the rite, wearing white robes and chanting. I stuck around as long as I could but apparently a lot of chanting is required before taking the plunge, so we gave up and left before they started.

Throughout the hike we saw plenty of critters, and among those that stayed still for the camera were moth above, the leaf frog below, and festively decorated stink bug below that.

 

 

 

It was an overcast day so this was the view from the top. Not bad, but not as nice as the view of Mount Fuji on clear days. Once at the top we had a snack and hiked around a bit before heading down route 1, which passes Yakuoin Temple on the way to the beer garden.

Along the way we passed this little shrine dedicated to the health of hikers. This is the place to pray for healthy legs and relief of back pain, and as I've been suffering from a sore lower back for a few weeks I gave the bell a ring a asked the gods to fix my back. Just for fun of course, but amazingly my back pain disappeared and still hasn't returned. I know it's just the placebo effect at work, but I'm grateful just the same.

 

The beer garden was a disappointment. Called "Beer Mount", it is located near the top of the mountain by the cable car station and is only open in the summer months. 3000 yen (3300 yen for men, 1500 yen for children) gets you all the draught beer (and liquor, cocktails, and soft drinks) you can drink and all the food you can eat in two hours. I've been wanting to go for years because the view is supposed to be great and, let's face it, there are few things nicer after a few hours of hiking than a whole bunch of ice cold beer.

But apparently I'm not the only one who feels that way, and a few minutes after it opened it was already full. The few seats with a good view were taken (our seats came with a view of the poor saps lining up to get in), and because everyone had just arrived at the same time there were mad lines for food and drink.

The food I finally managed to get. The oden (stew, shown in the bowl), smoked duck (or was it chicken?) and yakisoba (fried noodles) were good; everything else, not so much. And I was way less hungry that I thought I'd be so I couldn't even finish my plate, let alone go up for more. The beer was good, of course, but I certainly didn't drink 3000 yen worth.

So now my curiosity is satisfied and I know not to go back. Next time I do Takao-san I'll save myself some money and get a can of beer from one of the vending machines on the summit--is there any part of this country that isn't covered in vending machines? I've just learned to appreciate them a little bit more.

JapanSoc it!

Comments

[mojavi]

i just love reading your posts and looking at the food. My mother in law is from Okinawa and I am teaching my two year old japanese. I wish we could get good japanese food here.... but alas we are in Kansas

[Kat]

Hi! I really enjoy reading your blog and your photographs are absolutely stunning. I've only been to Japan once on a tour (from Hawaii). Anyway, I can totally relate to what you say about having built up expectations about things. I am always like that. Whether it's a new store or restaurant, I will get all excited in anticipation but when the time comes I often find the experince not up to expectations. Keep up the great posts!

[Belen]

These are amazings photos!! Thankyou for sharing :-)

[toasted]

hi! you have wonderful photos here! i like your blog keep it up! :D